Susan, you went to Korea and then suddenly Kim Jong II dies? Hmm... Did you get him like you got Michael Jackson? Are there bomb shelters and terrified south Koreans running around now? I kid, I kid. But seriously, don't worry North America, the situation in Korea wasn't as insane as the western media led you to believe. I probably wouldn't have even known he had died if it weren't for my incessant facebook checking! When we watched the news, they were more concerned about their stocks falling than anything else. Guess what else? We were going to DMZ the same day!
We had a tour of the DMZ planned way before we even got there. Jaclyn even had to get our passport numbers to book the trip (apparently certain countries in the middle east or mainland China aren't allowed on tours). It was a no-refund tour but we were assured by the company that it was still running, despite the change of power in North Korea. The DMZ is the "Demilitarized Zone", a buffer area between North and South Korea. Since the armistice was signed in 1953, the DMZ was created as each side agreed to move their troops back from the front line to a establish a "neutral" territory.
Our tour left super SUPER early in the morning... or rather we had to wake up super super early to get there! We checked out at our hotel at 5:30am, walked to Jaclyn and took the subway to where the tour was departing from. I was feeling very under the weather from my cold and early morning wake up, that it probably wasn't til about 12pm that I started to feel better!
We took the hour long coach to the United Nations military base of Camp Bonifas. An American soldier became our new tour guide and gave us a brief history lesson and rules that we needed to follow while in the JSA. These included things such as "Don't wave or make any kind of gestures to the North Koreans - they could take this as a sign of aggression and shoot" and "stand in two lines facing North Korea, do not turn around and take pictures of the South". With our American escort, we went to the JSA - Joint Security Area. The JSA (or "Truce Village") is the only portion of the DMZ where South and North Korean forces stand face-to-face and hold discussions.
We went into the building that they held the armistice talks and future talks between both sides. The building has the MDL (Military Demarcation Line) running right through it so it is technically on both sides. We stood around a table and the guide said "if you are standing on this side of the Microphones, congratulations, you are standing in technically, 'North Korea'" !!
Due to poor weather conditions (icy and snowy), we unfortunately could not go see a security tower, the Bridge of No Return or the Observatory (where you could see the two different villages that are allowed to remain inside the DMZ - the "Freedom Village" in the south and the "Propaganda Village" in the North). After we left Camp Bonifas, we went to the 3rd tunnel.
The 3rd Tunnel was discovered in the late 70s and is the most "complete" tunnel that has been discovered. It runs from the North to the South (though they deny making it - regardless of the direction the dynamite blasts indicate). It is the third of four tunnels they have already discovered, but they think there may be up to 10 more. And it is only 44km from Seoul! Although it is now a tourist site, it is also very heavily guarded. You can only go so far before you get to three blockades that do not allow you to go any further into the North Korea side. It was a HECK of a climb though! It runs about 73m deep and believe me, the slope was not an easy task! We were very out of breath by the time we got back up.
The last stop on our DMZ tour was that of Dorasan Station. This is a railway station that connects North and South Korea. Obviously at the moment it does not go past Dorasan to continue onto the Northern side, but the station is a symbol of hope that one day, these two countries will be reunified. I honestly don't really see it happening anytime soon (especially not with the new transition of power, the military is still WAY too influential in North Korea even if the new guy
wanted progressive change)...But the Berlin Wall eventually came down, so maybe someday in our lifetime, a peace treaty will be signed.