I originally decided to do a sidetrip to Hakone before heading to Osaka/Kyoto because I wanted to see Mt. Fuji. There's no way I was gonna climb it (that was even before I learned about Japan's summer heat), and this town had great reviews of Mt. Fuji views and nature escapes.
But.
The skies in the summer are notoriously hazy and it was drizzly and foggy so alas, no mountain views were had.
But that's ok, because Hakone was beautiful regardless.
I arrived feeling a bit hungover from my previous night's adventures in Shibuya, but after a short Shinkansen (bullet train), a local train, and a REAL local clickity-clackity train (complete with switchback changes), I got to my hostel.
This is the only time on the trip where I couldn't justify splurging on a private room. Hakone is a resort town and as thus, has resort prices. I grabbed an 8 bed bunk in Emblem Flow Hostel and was pleasantly surprised.
Not only was my bottom bunk large enough to change sitting up, it had a privacy curtain and a oulet/lamp so it felt like a teeny tiny room.
But the biggest draw? Not just the fancy looking restaurant or big bunks? Definietly not the basic vibe of the common room. But... The onsen.
Onsens are public baths - but more like giant spa hot tubs. You need to get over that western shame about being naked because bathing suits are not allowed. Towels are not allowed. Flip flops not allowed. Just you and the warm healing waters.
Hakone is all about the onsens. It's located in a volcanic mountainous area where the hotels use the natural hot springs to heat their onsens.
After an expensive, small but satisfying dinner (mixed salad & seared salmon) - I tried the onsen. I had it all to myself and after googling "how to onsen", I enjoyed it!.
("How to onsen": shower before you enter using the handheld one or a western style stand up one, don't get your hair wet, leave your towel in the changing area, soak, then shower/wash hair and body after).
I went up to the common room hoping to meet people and I did! I met a traveller named Amy from England who was traveling around Asia before heading off to work in Australia. We hit it off and made plans to hang out the next day.
Aug 7 - Smelly mountains, swans and onsens
Amy and I started off our Hakone adventure by taking the inclined cable car outside our hostel in Gora Stn up the mountain to catch the Hakone Ropeway - a gondola that goes up and over the mountains. We were told we would get a great view of Mt. Fuji from here, but that was more of our view.
* side note - Buy the Hakone Free Pass, it gives you unlimited transit around Hakone (trains, ropeways and ships!)
When we got to the top of the mountain called Owakudani and all you could smell was sulfur. There were some slightly worrisome signs about what to do if a volcano erupted. But we were there for the snacks.
We tried some charcoal ice cream and it was delicious. Who cares if it's 10 am - you're on vacation! It tasted like vanilla, but man did it give me some terrifying looking 💩s the next day...
The main draw of the area were these black eggs. They are cooked in sulfur water which causes them to blacken. Our excitement quickly withered once we realized they weren't black inside and we just bought 4 hardboiled eggs for 500¥.
After the eggs and smelly mountain, we took the ropeway down to Lake Ashi where we boarded the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise on a pirate ship. The lake cruise took about 40 mins and while we were going on it, we kept seeing people on swan paddleboats going to see the famous Heiwa no Torii shrine.
So obviously, guess what we got.
It was a blast! Something I won't easily forget because it's not like I could have paddled solo! We saw a unique view of the shrine and equally lamented how tired our legs were.
Not to fear! Onsen is here! We bought tickets to an "onsen themed water park" called Yunnesun. Not really know what to expect, we ended up in a whirlwind of tourist families and their very loud and excited children. I love kids, but not on my vacation. We navigated the minefield of floaty rings and small bodies through a "wine" onsen (red coloured dye), "coffee" onsen and "sake" onsen. We did indulge in a quick water slide before deciding to head to the more tranquil "traditional spa" of Mori no yu.
Talk about having to be ok with nakedness. I was suddenly surrounded by women of all shapes and sizes. Interesting fact, you aren't allowed to show tattoos in onsen (people think you're tied to the Yakusa if you have tattoos?). So Amy had to wear these flesh coloured bandages over her small tattoos.
After our Yunnesun adventure, Amy left for Tokyo and I went to find some dinner. I settled for a Cesar salad and cheese plate from a hostel next door (Hakone Tent Bar). And while this cheese platter was basically cut for the size of a mouse and not my north American cheese loving stomach, it surprised me by actually being just the right amount to satisfy me.
One more onsen when I got back to my hostel and then a quick Google of "how much onsen is too much onsen" (I had too much onsen), I had possibly the most complete and thorough sleep of the trip - no jet lag wakeup this time!
Aug 8 - Hakone Open Air Museum
For my last morning in Hakone, I headed to the Hakone Open Air Museum. I wish I had more time to explore it, but I was pressed for time and today was the day Hakone decided to follow the Japan trend of being hot AF. Yesterday was so lovely at like 29 degrees, I was spoiled. I felt like this dude:
This Open Air Museum was SO up my alley. You walked around various statues and installations (some statues moved), with small QR codes with audio guides at certain landmark pieces. I love Henry Moore and there were a lot of his collection there (rotating exhibit of 26 of his pieces). According to the gallery, "Moore believed sculpture should be displayed out of doors, 'Sculpture is an art of the open air,' he said".
One of the coolest pieces was a tower made out of stained glass by Gabriel Loire. You climbed its winding circular staircase to get to the top and see a great view of Hakone.
Even though I had planned Hakone to view Mt. Fuji, it's onsen and nature were more than enough to make up for it. Plus! A travel friend for the day!
Next stop, a completely different vibe: Universal Studios Japan.
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