40–90% of Normandy’s cities were bombed and destroyed during WWII, but Bayeux was a rare exception (along with Honfleur on the coast). The Germans had tightly restricted access to the town, only a few were allowed to move freely. One of them was a monk, a famous cyclist, who needed to ride outside the city.
Bayeux wasn’t a strategic target... it was more of a leisure post for German soldiers, with "houses of pleasure" (apparently most of the hotels here were that!), a cinema, and very little military equipment. They heard the shelling on D-Day and quickly left to reinforce the coast. The cyclist monk left too, informing the British that the Germans had gone and begging them not to bomb Bayeux. The nearby rown of Caen was 80% destroyed ans Bayeux wasn’t touched. That’s why its cathedral and historic buildings remain intact. Thanks, in part, to the monk, Dom Aubourg.
It has a completely different vibe from Pari: super laid-back, with a slower pace with both locals and tourists. My Airbnb is a room in a whimsically decorated 16th-century house. My window overlooked Rue Saint-Jean, a strolling street that became unexpectedly lively when a band performed right outside on Saturday night (every other street in this town was completely dead).
Tired from my journey from Paris, I treated myself to the very cheesy, but completely adorable: Petite Tourist Train. It does a 45-minute loop around town with audio in seven languages (including English) and was a perfect intro to Bayeux and a much-needed break for my feet.
I also had my first macarons of the trip at L'Olivier du Macaron which, according to one review was, “better than any I had in Paris.” I can’t speak for Paris, but compared to Canada, these were amazing. Perfect crunch, soft crème filling. I tried blueberry, apricot, vanilla, and apple-caramel and blueberry and apple-caramel were my faves.
Speaking of apples… Normandy is known for them, and thus, for its cider! I tried a glass of Les Vergers de Ducy at dinner, just the right balance of dry and sweet. Goldilocks level goodness.
Bayeux Cathedral
One of the most impressive sights here is the Bayeux Cathedral, built in 1077. It dominates the skyline with its spire. My agnosticism always takes a backseat in Europe, apparently.
My favorite sculpture inside? Two tiny figures called The Bayeux Lovers.
In the evening, I was lucky enough to be there on a day they were doing a light and sound show on the cathedral. Using the art inspired by the painter Alain Thomas, they had moving images depicting the four seasons. It was quite impressive and one of the more magical moments of this trip.
The Bayeux Tapestry
The Bayeux Tapestry is a 950-year-old, 68-meter-long embroidered cloth that depicts the events leading up to William the Conqueror's success at the Battle of Hastings. William then became the subsequent Norman ruler over England in 1066. This tapestey is part of Unesco's Memory of the World.
It can be viewed as a sort of medieval propaganda that justified the Norman invasion to the public, as it was displayed yearly in the cathedral to the majority of illiterate masses. Upon arrival, you are given a headset that tells the story of the tapestry as you slowly walk around it - much like they would have done in the 11th century. It was impressive how well the colours and cloth have kept up, considering all the wars and revolutions that France and England have been a part of since then!
Afterward, I accidentally napped during a follow-up film (oops), but then wandered into a room full of Pixi statues: cute little metallic miniatures depicting French life, cartoons, and pop culture. I saw Tintin, Astérix, Babar… even the Simpsons!
They also had a miniature replica of the tapestry, which is handy since you can’t take photos of the original.
Bayeux is a stunning, low-key town... a peaceful break from the buzz of Paris, perfect for a weekend away. But that’s not why I came here. I chose Bayeux because of its proximity to the Normandy beaches. And if you know even a smidgen of WWII history, you know that’s a must-visit. That’s where I’m headed next… Stay tuned.
