I spent good money on a wine tour of Burgundy through Authentica Tours. It was a small group: me and a mother/daughter duo from the States, so it felt very intimate. Unfortunately, it was kind of a letdown. The guide kept repeating that “wine is meant to be an experience, not just facts and information”. Meanwhile, I’m thinking, well, I’d actually like some information... otherwise I could just enjoy a glass at a bar. Compared to my incredible Normandy guide, this one felt disengaged. He even complained about how a guest the other day had asked too many questions! It didn’t really foster an environment of speaking up and inquiring more, to be honest. But you win some, you lose some.
The drive was beautiful, at least. We drove along the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune area (which is only a tiny part of the Burgundy wine region!). I did learn that the word côte has three meanings depending on context: a slope on a small hill where the vines rest, the coast, and a rib of meat (côte de porc, etc.). In Burgundy, they only produce two types of wine (monoculture): Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Our first stop was at a very small local producer (80% of their wine is consumed locally). After I provided some GPS directions for my guide (after he claimed he didn’t need maps because he knew everywhere in the region), we arrived at Domaine Pillot-Henry. What a hidden gem! It was a 20-acre estate and the tasting was in a legit wine cellar (not just for ambiance!). There was no fancy sommelier—just the makers being passionate about their wine. We tried two Chardonnays and three Pinot Noirs, culminating in a premier cru. Premier cru and grand cru are considered the highest quality grapes and therefore often produce the better-tasting wine (but it’s all preferential based on your tastes!). I wish the guide’s translations had been fuller; often, a minute of French was condensed into a single sentence of English. Still, the atmosphere was wonderful, and I left with a bottle of Pommard 1er Cru “Les Charmots” for just 32€. Fingers crossed it survives the five-train-bus-plane trek home.
I think the highlight though was that we were greeted by the winery’s friendly dog! He was clearly a French doggo as he wanted to play fetch with a wine cork.
Our second winery in the afternoon was Moillard-Grivet near Meursault. It was drastically different from the morning’s... more commercial and very fancy. The salons were drawers that you pulled out from. A little drawer beside you then had running water constantly cleaning it (think: dentist’s office). The sommelier spoke English, so I felt like I learned a little bit more about the wines this time (not having to rely on translation from the guide), including about a neat tool that puts a syringe into the cork to dispense the wine without altering the oxygen level. I didn’t buy any bottles here as the price was outside my range, but it was interesting to compare the two locations.
Beaune – A Small Wine Town
For lunch, we stopped in the charming town of Beaune for two hours. The agency suggested a few restaurants, so I booked an Indian buffet called Lunchbox, worried about vegetarian options. At 29€ for a small selection, it was underwhelming—especially for someone who can happily survive on pastries. Lesson learned: check reviews first.
However, I did really enjoy the suggestion to check out the Hôtel-Dieu Museum. It’s also known as Hospices de Beaune and was a charitable hospital to care for the poor after the devastation of the Hundred Years’ War, continued serving as a hospital until the 1970s. It's colorful tiled roof is a Burgundy icon, and inside you can see the old infirmary rooms and a medieval apothecary. I had just enough time to visit before I met back up with the group.
Dijon – Not Just Mustard!
The next day, I explored the town of Dijon. I quite liked the mix of modern commercial city and old historic centre.I did a self-guided tour and followed the “Parcours de la Chouette” (Owl Trail), marked by bronze plaques in the pavement. The owl is Dijon’s unofficial symbol, and legend says that touching the carved owl on Notre-Dame de Dijon with your left hand, placing your right hand over your heart, and making a wish will bring it true. I’m not sure I got the ritual exactly right,, but let’s see how the rest of this trip pans out!
At the Notre-Dame de Dijon cathedral, I also saw some of the best gargoyles of my life! I was very impressed with their facial expressions and mix of animals and humans.
Dijon is known as the gastronomic capital of France (gastronomy being the art and science of good eating—not just cooking, but the culture and traditions around food). I went to the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, which had a number of free exhibits centered around food and wine. One was a science-center-style exploration of the five senses, but my favorite was an interactive virtual kitchen where I “made” chocolate mousse by gathering digital ingredients and completing touchscreen cooking steps. It was really fun, and if I had a better memory, I could probably now make mousse!
On Friday morning, the market opened up at the Halles Centrales. It's housed in a large hall full of vendors, as well as the vendors overspilling onto the sidewalk surrounding it. I was very proud of my bartering skills (writing "I only have 10 euros to buy the teatowel" on Google Translate and looking cute and smiling), which resulted in saving 5€!
I also visited “La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot,” a family-run mustard maker since the 1840s. Unlike the big brand Maille, Fallot still produces locally and is known as the “only genuine Burgundian mustard.”
Well, after doing a tasting, it turns out I don’t actually like the spiciness of Dijon mustard, but I did partake in some other culinary delights! I had a delicious roll at a Japanese–Peruvian fusion restaurant (hey, I’ve been to all three of these places) called Côté Sushi Dijon.
To make myself feel better after the so-so wine tour, I treated myself to a salted caramel crêpe at “Mon Amie Suzette.” The homemade caramel was perfection. I returned the next day for a fancier version with apples, cookie crumble, and ice cream, but the simple original still won. I also tried Kir, which is white wine mixed with crème de cassis—quite sweet, but still delicious.
With Dijon explored, my solo adventures wrap up here—next stop, Annecy, to meet my friend Jill!
