Salzburg

Salzburg is a beautiful town whose claims to fame include being the birthplace of Mozart, the Salzburg Festival, and, of course, the filming location of The Sound of Music. On our Guru walking tour, we covered the Old Town area, starting at the beautiful Mirabell Gardens.

Mirabell means "wonderful beauty," and our guide told us a dramatic story about the Prince-Archbishop who originally built the palace for his mistress, Salome Alt, with whom he had 15 children! When he was removed from power, he was imprisoned in the fortress overlooking Salzburg, where he was forced to look down upon the palace and gardens he had built for her. An 1818 fire badly damaged the palace, which was later rebuilt to what you can see today.

There's also a roughly 335-year-old Dwarf Garden (Zwergerlgarten) nearby, the oldest in Europe and inspiring future garden gnomes for years to come.

We stood outside both the birthplace and later residence of Mozart, the Michael Jackson of classical music (he didn't have much of a childhood thanks to an overbearing father who pushed him towards musical genius). Mozart allegedly didn't like Salzburg that much because the Prince-Archbishop placed limits on the music he could make, particularly church music and its length. He was happier and more productive in Vienna, where he moved at 25 and remained until his young death at 35.

We walked by the birthplace of Christian Doppler (the physicist behind the "Doppler Effect," meaning that a sound coming towards you has a higher pitch than one moving away). 

We also ambled through Getreidegasse, where metal signs, some over 400 years old, line the street. These signs traditionally indicated what was being sold underneath... i.e. scissors and ribbon for a dressmaker (but now a Mango clothing store).

After our walking tour, we went to Augustiner Bräu Mülln Biergarten for some Munich-style refreshments. It was really cool: you bought your beer and got a ticket, then picked up a stone mug, washed it yourself, and gave it and the ticket to the bartender, who filled your mug from a wooden barrel. On our walking tour, we learned that when Biergartens were introduced, they became so popular that restaurant owners got upset, so rules were introduced limiting what food Biergartens could serve (mostly bread and beer!). The law has since been lifted, but the tradition remains, so we indulged in bread and beer just the same.

Every city deserves a side quest, and mine was finding the "Gurken" statues (thanks to Instagram travellers for the inspiration)! There are five pickle statues near the university library made by avant-garde artist Erwin Wurm (whose art was featured in the Red Hot Chili Peppers' music video for "Can't Stop"). According to Wurm, just like humans, each pickle has a different shape, curve, and size, but at one glance, you know what it is -- its a pickle. Humans though always looking different, are still humans. 

Tarun's favourite meal of the trip so far was a fire-roasted Margherita pizza at Pizzeria Ciro that we grabbed near our accommodations (Numa Salzburg Vogelweider). I was happy because when I tried to order in German, the server was surprised and asked if I spoke German. Proud moment for me! My favourite meal, however, was the Austrian Spinatknödel, a spinach dumpling made with spinach, cheese, breadcrumbs, and eggs.

As we wandered through the Old Town, we noticed signs for an open-air opera on Saturday in one of the main squares. Tarun begrudgingly agreed to go, but when we got there and realized it was a filmed version projected onto a big screen rather than live singers, *Carmen* unfortunately did not win out. 😅

We also had two very dramatic moments in Salzburg involving emergency services! One (less worrisome) was that our entire hotel had to be evacuated due to a fire alarm, and we got to see firefighters coming in to check the alarm system. Nothing like standing around outside in my PJs.

The second was that we had to call an ambulance for an older man who drove his bike into a wall! We were walking back from the bus in our very deserted suburban area when we heard the crash and saw him lying on his back. But we didn't have phone data, so Tarun had to run and flag down some random people walking by to ask if they spoke English and could call Austria's 911 (Note: it's 112!). We waited for the ambulance and police, but luckily I think the man was going to be okay. They took him away on a gurney, and from the police officer's attitude and the fact that they made him do a breathalyzer, I think alcohol may have been the culprit. He wasn't able to move after hitting his head, though, so I think we definitely did the right thing.

And as for the other famous thing Salzburg is known for? IMMA GONNA DO A WHOLE FANGIRLY POST ON IT NEXT... ;)

Berchtesgaden, Eagle's Nest & Königssee

We are headed to Berchtesgaden next. Known for being "idyllic and atrocious" in the same breath, it has some of the most gorgeous Alpine views in Germany... and was also home to one of the main seats of Nazi power in the 1930s and '40s.

We stayed just across from the Hauptbahnhof in a very pretty Alpine-style hotel called Hotel Grünberger. It's definitely a tourist town, attracting both nature and history enthusiasts. On our first night, we explored the town of Berchtesgaden and luckily came upon "Musik Montag" (Music Monday), where various musicians were performing throughout the town centre.

We grabbed Turkish dürüms (döner for T and falafel for me) and a bench to listen to a beautiful singer perform soft versions of English songs like "Girls Just Wanna Have Fun" and "Mamma Mia." We wandered through the town centre with ice cream later and were treated to a big brass oompah band playing in the market square. Traditionally dressed band members came around selling shots of schnapps, and we donated a few euros for the sweet treat and to support the musicians.

Eagle's Nest / Kehlsteinhaus

Kehlsteinhaus, also known by its English name, the Eagle's Nest, is located 1,834 metres high in the Berchtesgaden Alps. On a clear day, you can even see Salzburg, Austria!

First, you take a city bus from the Berchtesgaden Bahnhof (free with the visitor's pass you get by staying at a hotel in the region!). Then you pay for a ticket (ideally in advance, although you can alter your time to a later bus if needed) and take a special coach up a 6.5 km mountain road, about a 15-minute ride.

You enter a long tunnel, go up a golden brass lift and enter... the Eagle's Nest. The view is absolutely amazing. The historical significance... horrifying.

From 1933–45, the Obersalzberg area was the second most important centre of power for the Nazi regime after Berlin. Hitler had his Berghof residence here and spent a significant amount of time in the area, where he and other high-ranking Nazis made decisions about war, persecution and genocide.

The Eagle's Nest itself was built in 1937–38 as a prestigious reception building high above the Obersalzberg. Interestingly, Hitler didn't actually spend that much time up here and visited relatively rarely. It was used more often by members of his inner circle and to impress diplomatic guests. He entertained Mussolini here (the fireplace is rumored to be a gift from him). Eva Braun suntanned while Goebbels and Goering drank on the terraces. 

It's an absolutely beautiful and stunning view. It's surreal to be in this place as a historical tourist, 81 years later.

We took a teeny hike a bit farther up to get a really beautiful view of Lake Königssee and the mountains surrounding us. We had a beer and radler on the patio of the now-functioning restaurant before heading back down.

Afterwards, we went to the Dokumentation Obersalzberg, an incredibly interesting museum that highlights the history of Obersalzberg (the area above Berchtesgaden). It was laid out incredibly well, with an English (and other languages) audio guide showcasing how the area went from a small farming village and holiday destination to Hitler's heavily guarded, off-limits compound, and then eventually back to a recreational and holiday getaway.

Three artifacts in particular were of significant interest to me:

● A "Cigarette Photo Collection Book" from 1936. Adults used to collect these photos from cigarette packages and pass them on to their children to put into albums, and people would trade them. Think Spice Girls bubble gum stickers from the late '90s, but with Nazis. 😬 This was a highly effective propaganda tool, with millions of these albums produced.

● A map showcasing the battle on the Eastern Front (Russia). The one they had on display showed November 21, 1942, when Hitler gave the order from Obersalzberg that forbade the 6th Army to retreat from Stalingrad, which proved to be fatal for German troops.

● A baby "gas mask" cot. Germany developed these awkward machines to protect babies in case poison gas was used against German civilians. However, as the museum placard noted, "there were no Allied gas attacks and the cot remained unused. The only use of gas in World War II was by the Germans - to murder people in extermination facilities and camps." 😬

Afterwards, we explored remnants of the bunker system that existed beneath Obersalzberg. Upon defeat, the SS burned documents in these bunkers (you can still see one room darkened from soot) and the people living in the countryside ransacked the abandoned buildings for useful items.

I've seen the Churchill War Rooms in London, and now I've seen a similar kind of experience in Germany (bunkers, war maps, etc.). I am putting this history degree to good use.

Lake Königssee

To cleanse the palate from this dark history and enjoy the natural beauty of the region, we did a day trip to Lake Königssee. You can hike, take a boat tour, or ride a gondola up Jenner mountain. We opted for the boat tour.

A tip for those going in the future: book early! We booked the morning of, and the earliest boat we could get was 1:45 p.m. We subsequently had two hours to kill when we got there, so we explored the little lakeside attractions (overpriced food & souvenirs), snacked on a surprisingly fresh pretzel, and did a short mini-hike to the Malerwinkl lookout for a great shot of the lake.

We boarded our boat and floated leisurely across the lake. We passed an "Echo Wall," where the guide played a trumpet tune and the sound echoed back to us. In older times, they apparently used to shoot guns toward the wall to hear the echo.

The boat stopped at two locations: the Church of St. Bartholomä and the end of the lake at Salet. We skipped the church because we wanted to get to Salet and do a short hike to another lake for a swim.

Lake Obersee was a lot less busy, and we were so hot that a cool mountain-lake swim sounded perfect.

It really was.

We had a little swim and then headed back to Berchtesgaden by boat and bus in the evening. We totally missed the solar eclipse as we were getting ready for dinner, oops!, and enjoyed a delicious Indian dinner at Noor E Panjab, "the finest (and only) Indian Cuisine" in Berchtesgaden. 

That wrapped up our time in Berchtesgaden and we are off to Salzburg next!

Dachau Concentration Camp

In another chapter of Susan Visits Dark History Spots Around the World, we went to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp. My interest in history, specifically Holocaust stories (which was sparked by reading "Number the Stars" in Grade 5) has rubbed off on Tarun, and he was equally engaged in this memorial. I took minimal pictures while there, but those I did take, I will add to this blog.

Dachau was the first permanent concentration camp established by the Nazi regime, opening in March 1933, and it became a model for the concentration camp system that followed. Originally, it primarily housed political prisoners... those who opposed the Nazi regime, including communists and other political opponents, but it soon expanded to imprison many others persecuted by the Nazis (e.g. Jews, Roma, LGBTQ, etc). Over its 12 years of operation, more than 200,000 people were imprisoned at Dachau and its network of subcamps, and at least 41,500 died.

Before you enter the prisoner camp, you can see some of the former SS grounds, which included training facilities, administrative buildings & living quarters. Much of this area isn't part of the memorial today and is currently used by the Bavarian Riot Police.

The site originally had 34 barracks, but today only two have been reconstructed to show what the interiors would have looked like during different periods of the camp's existence. The locations of the others are marked by concrete outlines stretching down the former camp road. 

The expanded camp was designed to hold about 6,000 prisoners, but became incredibly overcrowded as the war progressed. By the time it was liberated by U.S. forces on April 29, 1945, more than 30,000 prisoners were crammed into the main camp. If you need a visual comparison like I did, BMO Field can hold about 30,000 fans during regular Argos/Toronto FC games.

Dachau housed fewer physical artifacts than what I witnessed during my visit to Auschwitz in 2010, but a lot more information. I skimmed a bit because of my finally useful history degree and lost Tarun in the museum area for about an hour. The main museum is housed in the former camp maintenance building, where newly arrived prisoners were registered, stripped of their belongings, forced to undress and processed into the camp system.

One thing that was similar between Auschwitz-Birkenau and Dachau was the gate bearing the words "Arbeit macht frei", or "Work sets you free." A taunting message of false hope to the people imprisoned there. The historic gate was stolen from the memorial in 2014 and eventually recovered in Norway in 2016. Since then, it has been kept inside the museum for security, while a replica stands at the original entrance.

While Dachau was not primarily an extermination camp, it did have a crematorium and gas chamber on site. The gas chamber, disguised as a shower room, was built inside the newer crematorium known as Barrack X.  Historians generally agree that there is no evidence the gas chamber was used for mass executions (unlike Auschwitz-Birkenau), but some prisoners may have been killed there using poison gas.

The crematoria, on the other hand, were extensively used. As the death toll increased, particularly near the end of the war, the crematorium could not keep up. A shortage of coal eventually stopped it from operating, and thousands of bodies instead had to be buried in mass graves. 😥

We spent about three hours there. It's only about 40 minutes from Munich and is quite a solemn, but important, visit. One I won't quickly forget.