Jūrmala & the Gulf of Riga!

Jill and I decided to take a 2-day mini-break to the seaside town of Jūrmala (pronounced "Yur-moolah"). Located about 45 minutes from Riga, it was an easy 2€ train ride to get there. While it might be better suited as a day trip from Riga, we managed to combine an afternoon of beach time with a day of forest hikes during our stay. 

Jūrmala was once a popular resort town during Soviet times, and its influence is still evident. Russian is the more commonly spoken second language, besides Latvian, and our guesthouse had a distinctly Russian Grandma style. Complete with laminated lace tablecloths and classic grandma couches, it felt like a nostalgic throwback. Our host spoke minimal English, but we communicated well enough for our time there (and I somehow scored some laundry – but left a 5€ tip because I just wanted to know if I could use the machine, not have her do it for me...). There was also this hilarious angry little doggo living there, who protected his house at all costs.

Our Guesthouse

Jūrmala Beach, Jomas Iela & Black Balsam

Our first stop was Jūrmala Beach, as rain was forecasted, and we wanted to squeeze in some beach time. We relaxed, took pictures with the sign, and I dipped my toes in the Gulf of Riga (the beach was a wading beach, requiring a long walk before reaching swimming depth). We timed our exit perfectly, as it started pouring almost immediately after we gathered our belongings. 

Beach time!

We strolled along the pedestrian-only street, Jomas Iela, to find a restaurant for dinner, where we both enjoyed a salmon dish, albeit with mediocre service. We decided to try the Latvian liquor, "Riga Black Balsam," and purchased some from the liquor store. You could enjoy it on the rocks (a long story, but we didn't opt for that), straight, mixed with ice cream (which I tried in Riga!), or diluted with soda water. We sampled two flavors: cherry and black currant, with the former tasting like cough medicine and the latter being the clear winner. The next night, we chose a pre-mixed can of it for our beach sunset, and it was the clear, albeit slightly sweet, winner.

Give me all the black currant flavours 

Forest Hikes in Ragakāpa

Our original plan was to hike in nearby Kemeri National Park on our second day, but unfortunately, it wasn't pedestrian-friendly, and due to a massive storm a few weeks prior, many areas were still closed for debris cleanup. So, we opted for a smaller hike at Ragakāpa (on the northeast point). My eternal "please talk to me" face (I really need to work on my resting bitch face) caused a random late-middle-aged local to strike up a conversation and become our unofficial bus tour guide. He was nice but a bit too friendly ("I promise I'm not a bad guy" made us feel the opposite). We bid him adieu at our stop and chose a longer walk into the forest.

Ragakāpa Forest Hike

The forest was stunning, with giant pine trees in every direction. They've developed a wooden boardwalk with English signs explaining the flora and fauna. I even picked a bunch of wild delicious blueberries to snack on. The hike ended at a free Open-Air Museum showcasing early 19th/20th-century fishing life. Highlights included moss-covered fishing houses, 18th-century shipwreck remnants, traditional saunas, examples of intimidating fish, and a drum made from an old fuel tank. 

Open-Air Museum

Our evening ended with a delicious dinner (veggie pizza for me, grilled veggies for Jill, and a homemade cranberry drink) and a sunset on the beach. For the first time on this trip, I wanted to wear my fleece, but it was still a beautiful way to end our time in Jūrmala.